Komorebi (Japanese): The sunlight that filters through the leaves of the trees.
Swordcat taking a nap in the grass under the trees.
Can y’all guess what (earth) large cat Swordcat is based on?
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The random nerdy interests of a random nerdy person
I’ve changed Wild Rush and Deuce of Heart’s names again. Wild Rush is now Wild Streak and besides the grey skin he’s also got a black scar across his face and one eye that’s completely black. Deuce is now Wild Heart (her real name is still Daisy Hart).
I’m working on getting characters designed in Daz3d so I can do pin-ups on Patreon (starting at just $1 a month!). I have Charles and Andre nearly done (I need to do scars), Swordcat almost done (I have to finish his textures), Magpie almost done (I need to do the designs painted on her prosthetic legs), and Mick almost done (I need to do some fixes in Blender and his tattoos).
So here’s some of that art. If you want to see them more often or with less clothes, subscribe to the patreon!
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I actually finished it! 31 plus new words in my various conlangs. Here’s the list:
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Conscript = writing system for a conlang
This is written for someone with a basic knowledge of Illustrator. You should also be able to adapt it for other software. This post won’t tell you how to design a script (basically, doodle a bunch of things until you get stuff you like. Make sure parts of the glyphs line up consistently). I’m using letter and glyph interchangeably here.
You have my permission to save, archive, alter, and remix this post, so long as you include credit (Silvercat) and the original URL.
To start with, create a new document in Illustrator with a nice large canvas. Turn on the grid. It doesn’t particularly matter what size the grid is, but 8 subdivisions work well for lining things up. I have the grid at 72px, which means each letter will be an inch tall if printed.
Draw your glyphs as lines, keeping a consistent grid system, glyph widths, ascender and descender height, etc. Your grid can be very complex! Multiple ascender and descender heights, sub-grids, etc are not unusual for a writing system. Just make sure you’ve got a system. Use guides and refer to your other letters often.
A wider stroke will make it look more like type – I was using 7 point. You’ll probably have to make adjustments later in any case, so don’t worry overly much about getting it perfect.
Re-use parts of letters where you can, like dots, curves, and angles. It doesn’t matter how many pieces a letter is made up of. I like drawing circles and cutting them to pieces as appropriate to get a good curve, but that probably won’t work for all conscripts.
See how the curve of the first one and the last one line up? And the midline of the two middle ones? It’s the same dot in the first two. The three narrow letters are five boxes wide, while the larger one is eight. Depending on your glyphs that could vary a lot or not at all. Latin letters vary widely, from ‘i’ to ‘m’.
At this point, you could stop – it’ll be an acceptable set of characters, but letter nerds will notice some issues. You can fudge some of these with a round cap on the stroke.
The problem is that the strokes end in whatever direction they’re facing. Whether done as calligraphy or as a font, letters end in a deliberate way. Compare the leg on the first glyph and the curve on the second with similar Latin letters, like below. In both cases, they end horizontally. You’re not limited to horizontal or vertical, but make a decision about it.
How do you fix it? Easy.
Outline the stroke (Object > Path > Outline stroke) then cut away the offending bits with a rectangle and Minus Front in the Pathfinder palette. If you want to be super-accurate (and you should), turn on ‘snap to grid’ (Shift+CTRL+” or View>Snap to Grid) and reposition your shapes to perfectly align to the grid. You’ll likely have to use a combination of selecting shapes with the Selection tool and selecting segments with the Direct Selection Tool. A couple of bumps with the arrow keys and you’ll be spot on.
For angles, like the leg on the first letter, before you outline, you’ll want to reposition it so it stays in your grid (unless you deem that acceptable). And you’ll want to make sure there’s enough extra on any stroke that you can cut it cleanly. This can mean redoing your curves, so think ahead.
How about if you want something fancier? This is where it gets fun.
Go back to your letters that are made of just lines. Open a calligraphic brush library or make a new brush. For something similar to Latin letters, use the settings below.
Apply that to your lines, with a 1pt stroke. You’ll get something like below, with thick verticals and thin horizontals. (You can decide whether you want to apply it to dots or not, or to use a narrower stroker) But now you have a lot of adjusting to do to get it gridded.
You could actually just fix it and then leave it like that. Mess around with different calligraphic brushes to see different effects. You could also do like above to get sans-serif glyphs with variable line weight.
Or you can make a fancy serif version. Note: this is the quick and easy way. You can get fancier with curved serifs. Take a look at different font faces for ideas.
We’re making a slab serif font here.
The first step is to make nice clean angles for the serifs to hang off from. Extend your lines so that the round ends will get cut off, outline the stroke, then go to town with Minus Front. Get everything arranged on the grid nicely. It can be easier to outline each line at a time so you can make adjustments to angles and lengths as the other lines get set into place.
Now make a little rectangle where you want a serif to be. The exact size is up to you. I did one square wide and half a square tall. You can use those just like that for serifs, but I want to get a little fancier. Select one corner and bump it up a point or two. Now copy, rotate, and reflect your way around the letter. (It’s easiest if you copy the serifs to a space below so you can just grab them without going back to a previous glyph).
For thinner strokes, you want thinner serifs – for the wide strokes I put the serif halfway into the stroke and for the thin, the back of the serif shape touches the opposite side of the stroke. It helps to turn on Smart Guides so you can get the exact middle on the exact line segment you want. You can use a serif font as a guide, but in the end where you put serifs and where you don’t is up to you.
Now do all the rest of your letters and try not to curse past-you for deciding the writing system should have so many glyphs. Could be worse – you could be carving the whole thing into stone.
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I’ve already said that I was creating Maanxmusht to borrow words into Nyjichun, but I was actually making two conlangs. The other is Tsako, which is vaguely Finnish inspired, at least for the phonology.
Tsako and Maanxmusht are what’s called “naming languages” – conlangs with just enough vocabulary and grammar to create names. Tsako has less than 250 words – some of those created just to show how to use the couple of derivational prefixes that I’ve invented.
Tsako has paucal and plural, phonotactics that strictly limit what can appear where while still being CVC, and vowel harmony. I really like how the plurals turn out.
You can see all of it on my Neocities site. Here are some words I especially like:
I could pick a dozen more, but how about I stop there.
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I got the pattern for this from here: https://papermakeit.com/index.php/products/freebies/pmi-projects/the-dice-tower/detail Note that it’s designed for A4 so a couple of pages get cut off if you print it on letter (I moved the pages up so I could print it full-size)
There are no written instructions and the photo instructions aren’t complete. I also made some alterations. I added the stone details in the top floor windows and in the tall turret I added the inside walls and roof (all of these were cut from pages that didn’t print correctly the first time). Also, the clear acetate and the crenelations on the roof were apparently supposed to just be glued on, but I added tabs and slits for them instead and they ended up needing no glue.
I disagree with some of the designer’s decisions, especially the grey buildings on the top which were an absolute bear to build. I may redesign it to make my own version, but if I do it won’t be anytime soon.
It’s simply printed on cardstock and is designed to be sturdy for the most part. I added reinforcement with scotch tape along the ramps and I expect it’ll last pretty well. I’m not going to use metal dice with it, but I don’t think I would put metal dice through any dice tower.
I’ve made a video of it in action and it sounds quite nice:
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In the previous post, I talked about how easy Gen is. In this post, I’ll show what a generator in Gen looks like and what the limitations are. I’m working on a language called Maanxmuʃt, which I had decided I wanted to be Germanic-like so that there would be a bunch of sound changes when words where borrowed, since Nyji words are basically CVC. (I actually stole the phonology and phonotactics from some Germanic language, I don’t remember which) So I wrote up some guidelines for the phonotactics.
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Sometimes you just want a big list of words for your language. In my case, I’m creating a language (Maanxmuʃt) to be borrowed from for my main language (Nyji). There are two word generators I use:
Both are free, but they have different abilities and results. Before I compare, the obvious caveats:
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I made meatballs again, but added more veggies and spices, so here it is.
Like before, the easy way is to use a food processor (that’s what I did), but you can chop the veggies up yourself too. You can see above they’re just diced. I upped the amount of red and black pepper and they’re a bit spicy. If you don’t like pepper, reduce it back to 1/4 teaspoon each.
Silver’s Eat Alone Meatballs
1 lb ground turkey
1 lbs ground beef
1 cup-ish bread crumbs (about two slices of bread)
2 eggs
1 small onion, diced
4 or so cloves of garlic, minced
1/2 cup-ish carrot, diced or shredded
1 green pepper, diced
1/2 cup parmesan cheese
1 tsp salt
1/3 tsp black pepper
1/3 tsp red pepper
2tsp oregano
2 tsp basil
2 tsp parsley
Mix and form into 2 inch balls. It was a pretty wet mixture and I should’ve squished some of them more than I did, but they all turned out fine.
Cook at 400 degrees for 20 minutes. I lined the pan with foil and just put them straight onto that and there was no problem.
Let cool and freeze.
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These are the best waffles you’ll ever eat*
* your mileage may vary, no guarantee implied. But they are really REALLY good
Cue up Waffle King by Weird Al
I got the original form of the recipe from The Woman’s Companion Cook Book, then one night I didn’t realize we were low on eggs. But I knew you could substitute apple sauce, which we had. And they were AMAZING. So that’s the recipe you’re getting here.
Yes, you can also make them into pancakes, but waffles are better.
Makes about 12 waffles or a shit load of pancakes
Ingredients:
Dry:
Wet:
Mix all the dry ingredients well, then add the wet ingredients. The batter will be a bit lumpy. Make into waffles (or pancakes, if you’re a heathen)
They’re so good you don’t even need to add any topping (I prefer brown sugar)
You can freeze these. Just put a bunch of them into a large ziploc, no paper between them necessary. Heat in the toaster. I have no idea how long they last, because I always eat them within a week.
They’re not super filling, so eat with something else (some juice and a handful of nuts would probably make a pretty good breakfast. I usually have one waffle and then some cereal and berries)
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If you’re like me and deciding what to eat is HARD and making anything that’s more than two steps is SUPER HARD, then this is for you.
Tips:
Make things you can freeze (I’ll be posting some recipes soon). A lot of things can be frozen if you think you can’t finish all of it before it spoils. Can’t finish that loaf of bread? Divide it into bits you can finish in a week, wrap it up in plastic, and chuck it in the freezer. Defrost in the fridge later.
Convenience foods are your friends. Whether that’s a frozen meal, pre-cut veggies, canned chicken – that’s all stuff that makes getting food into you easier & that’s all that matters.
If you can afford to and you have the space, canned foods are great. Canned chicken or tuna, some frozen veggies, and some bread, rice, or pasta is a good meal.
Make a list of foods you like that are easy and keep it on the fridge so when you can’t think of stuff, you can look at the list. Mine would include miso soup, peanut butter & crackers, bread & cheese, and rice & veggies.
Two books I like:
Cooking is Terrible: This isn’t recipes so much as ideas. But they’re good ideas.
Just Bento: She just came out with a second one, but I haven’t read it yet. It’s full of recipes that are yummy, many of which you can freeze. Browse through the website for lots of recipes too. Most of them are Japanese inspired. Warning: there is some talk of “health” and calories. I ignore all of it because I’m more concerned with getting food into me, but you may not be able to.
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I’ve uploaded the newest version of the Nyjichun wikis! There is now one for the grammar and one for the lexicon (aka, all the words). They are SO a work in progress and are full of notes to myself and half-finished stuff.
In addition to that, I recently made a twine game for a jam on itch.io. I redid my conlang Tynthna. It now has actual IPA sounds and a few more words than it did before. And lots of sound recordings! Which may or may not be accurately said! (when in doubt, the orthography is canon). You can play it in your browser on itch.io.
That makes three conlangs that I’m sort of currently working on: Nyjichun, Tynthna, and Ie. I’ve also done a tiny bit in Ylis (the language of the Thunderian capital) lately, because I needed to be able to say Thunderian for on A Heroic Moment without actually referencing Thundercats. (It’s Lunderka for singular and Lunderkusa for plural – and that’s literally the only words I have for it right now, because the old version was from before I knew what IPA was).
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